Click Cover For Details Woodworking Business:
Start Quickly And Operate Successfully

“Woodworking Business: Start Quickly and Operate Successfully is a must read with practical tips on every aspect of the woodworking trade.

I would recommend this book to anyone in the woodworking profession. The insight within this book will do wonders for your business. It is one of the few books I have read more than once.

This book is a remarkable tool that not only helped me in the beginning; it serves as a reference that I can look back on when I have questions about my business.”

Chris Looney, Hardwood Technology

Now that your saw table and fixture base are ready, place the base on the table and slide it into the position you want. If you have aligned your blade with the table, simply align the front edge of the base with the front edge of the saw table. The blade must be fully retracted for this step. Now mark the location of the guide strips in relation to the base. Lift the base from the front to expose the top of the guide strip. Put a thin bead of glue on the top of the guide strips. Use the glue very sparingly to avoid ooze. Now gently lower the base and use the marks you made to make certain that the base and the guide strips are properly aligned. Again check to be sure that the base is aligned with the saw table. Now drive some ¾” brads through the base and into the guide strip. Drive one nail at the front and one nail at the rear of the base. Now make a line between the nails and drive one nail every 4” along the guide strip. This will hold it in place and ensure a good glue bond. If you don’t have ¾” brads, cut any small finish nails to the proper length and use them.


Take the base off the table saw by lifting it straight up from the front of the saw. Place the base upside down on your workbench. Place the rear fence (Part C) under the base (Part A) flush with the base. Measure 3” from either end to center the fence with the base. Now lift the base slightly and apply a strip of glue to the edge of the rear fence. Place the base down on the rear fence and check that it is flush. Nail or screw the base to the rear fence. You can use #6 finish or casing nails for this or use a pneumatic nailer. Set the nails or slightly countersink the screws so they will not scratch the table saw surface. You can also assemble this using the biscuit joiner.


Now repeat this process for the front edge of the fixture using the front fence. Your project is now assembled and ready to cut the blade track.


Before starting to set up the tracking, apply a lubricant to the table saw surface and the miter gauge slots. Use silicone or one of the special lubricants sold for this purpose. Next, rub the bottom of the base of the fixture, especially the guide strips, with paraffin wax. These steps will reduce friction and make your fixture easier to use.


Raise the blade of the table saw to approximately 1 ½” depth and put the fixture in its proper place on the table saw. The fixture guide strip should be properly seated in the miter gauge slots and the front fence should be directly behind the blade. Hold the fixture steady and start the motor. Now slowly push the fixture forward allowing the blade to cut all the way through the rear fence of your fixture. Your crosscut fixture is now ready to use.


You can finish your crosscut fixture using a stain and clear coat, clear coat alone or paint. To keep your fixture working smoothly, lubricate the bottom and the guide strips with paraffin wax after several uses. As an option you could cover the bottom of the fixture with plastic laminate before installing the guide strips. This is a very smooth surface and requires little if any lubrication. In any case the guide strips should be lubricated regularly.


For added safety, use bright red to paint the area where the blade cuts through the front and rear fences. Or, even better, attach a couple of ¾”x¾”x4” wood pieces on each side of the saw cut where it comes through the fences. This makes it difficult for your hand to accidentally enter the path of the blade without bumping the blocks.


Using this crosscut fixture you can safely and easily crosscut plywood pieces when you are making various projects.


Click on Crosscut Photos for pictures of the crosscut fixture on a table saw or Crosscut Drawings for detailed drawing for this project.


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A*

1

Base

1/2" X 27" X 70"

Solid Hardwood

B*

1

Front Base

3/4" X 4 1/2" X 64"

Hardwood Plywood

C*

1

Rear Fence

3/4" X 3" X 64"

Hardwood Plywood

D**

2

Guide Strips

5/16" X 3/4" X 27"

Solid Hardwood

INSTRUCTIONS FOR TABLE SAW CROSSCUT FIXTURE



List Of Materials


*The size of these parts is based on personal preference. The fixture will work effectively if it is larger or smaller. You must decide the best size for your shop considering the size of your table saw and the tables on each side of it.

**These guide strips must be cut to fit the miter gauge slot of your table saw. Make them slightly large and then plane or sand them down to fit the slots on your table saw. If you make them fit too loosely, your fixture will have too much side to side play. If they are too tight, it will take too much force to move the fixture, making it difficult to use. Also, be sure that the depth of the guide strips is less than the depth of the miter gauge slot so that there is no rubbing on the bottom of the slot. Your fixture will work more smoothly with this friction eliminated.

Once the pieces are cut to size you are ready to assemble your fixture. Before proceeding decide on the appearance of your fixture. I view jigs and fixtures as functional shop tools, so I do not veneer the edges or finish them in any way. You may feel differently. Since this is your project and your shop, you must decide. You can veneer all the exposed plywood edges or you can round-over all the fence edges to prepare for a good finish.


Step one of the assembly is to place the guide strips in the miter gauge slots. Since your strips are not as high as the slots, you need to place a shim under them during assembly. This will facilitate the nailing of the base to the guide strips.


Before starting the next step determine if the blade of your table saw is square with the table. The simplest way to do this is to raise the blade almost full height and then measure from the blade to the edge of one of the miter gauge slots. To take this measurement, select one blade tooth and use it as a measuring point for both measurements. Place the tooth in line with the table surface at the front of the saw and take the first measurement. Then swing the blade over until the same tooth is in line with the surface of the table towards the back of the saw and measure again. If the blade is square with the table, these measurements will be identical. If they are, go ahead and assemble your fixture. If the sizes are not the same, you have two options.


The first, and the one that I recommend, is to true the blade with the table. Many fine books dealing specifically with table saws provide in-depth instructions for doing this. A fine article in a past issue of Fine Woodworking dealt with this subject. It involves turning your table saw upside down (after retracting the blade completely) and then loosening the four bolts that hold the arbor in place. Once it is loose, move the blade in the right direction to correct the problem.


The second option is to align the base to be squared with the blade instead of with the table, then assemble it in that manner. This will compensate for the misalignment, but it is a poor compromise that I do not recommend.


Safety Note: Always disconnect your table saw before making adjustments or changing blades. Do not depend on a switch for the protection of your hands.


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